Dali Ancient Town: A Walking Guide to Yunnan's Walled Old City
Dali Ancient Town sits between the Cangshan mountains and Erhai Lake in Yunnan, China. It is the old walled centre of Dali, and one of the most relaxed places in the province to spend a few days. The town is small enough to cross on foot in about twenty minutes, and the grid of stone-paved lanes inside the walls has stayed roughly the same for centuries.
Three things shape the town: the Ming-dynasty walls, the Bai community that has lived here for generations, and the market streets that still serve local people as much as visitors. Dali was the capital of the Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms, and the old town keeps that history in its gates, temples and courtyards.
The Four Gates and the Walls
The old town is enclosed by a rectangular wall with four gates. The South Gate is the most photographed and the usual entry point from the bus and train stations. The North Gate is quieter and faces the road towards the Three Pagodas. The East Gate looks out towards Erhai Lake, and the West Gate towards the Cangshan range. You can walk on parts of the restored wall for views over the rooftops, though the climb is short rather than dramatic.
Foreign visitors often stay inside the walls rather than in the newer city outside them. Most guesthouses are in the lanes between Foreigner Street and the South Gate.
What to See Inside the Town
- Wuhua Tower — a central landmark on the main north–south street, rebuilt several times over the centuries.
- Dali Confucian Temple — a quiet courtyard complex, often nearly empty in the mornings.
- Foreigner Street (Renmin Road) — the main travellers' street, with cafes, bars and small shops.
- Bai tie-dye workshops — families around the old town still dye cloth with indigo using wax-resist methods; several workshops let you watch or try it.
- The morning market — fresh produce, mushrooms, cheese and flowers, busiest before 9am.
Bai Culture and Food
Dali is the heartland of the Bai people, and their architecture is everywhere: whitewashed walls, grey tiled roofs, and painted doorways with blue and green patterns. Look for the three-course tea ceremony, which moves from bitter to sweet to a lingering aftertaste, served in small cups.